Oct 2

Oct 2 A Fashion Mash-up for the ages! Dries van Noten x Christian Lacroix Paris Fashion week SS/20

A fashion collaboration that took 5 months in the making, Dries Van Noten and Christiaan Lacroix created a sensation at the Spring 2020 shows in Paris. We had to write about it because the idea alone was mind blowing and at once sublime and the clothes were stunning. A mix of old and new done in a very surprising and fresh way for spring.

For his Spring/Summer 2020 show Dries took notes from Lacroix’s storied legacy, which of he included voluminous silhouettes, bold colors, whimsical feathers, and inspiration from Lacroix’s couture shows of the 80’s and 90’s. Dries reminisced about those years of grand couture as being beautiful and excessive and living within a time of creativity and freedom.

Christian Lacroix was one of the last great couturiers showing in Paris up until he closed his line in 2009. His legend lives amongst the greats like John Galiano at Dior and Karl at Chanel. Anyone familiar with the 90’s tv series, Ab Fab, the main character Edina would end up in hilarious layers of Lacroix (which never really fit well) at his show only to be snubbed by the designer, and Lacroix crying at the sight of her during one of his fashion shows when she came near. Lacroix even though he lived in that glorious couture bubble of the time had always admired what Dries was doing.

During their 5 month collaboration which began in March, Dries says he learned so much while working with Lacroix especially about adding elements of freedom in his usually restrained designs. Dries is one of the original Belgian designers who created and ushered in a more minimal approach to fashion, he said then his aim was to ‘Break the bubble of the old couture’ which was excessive and ultimately out of touch with the customers who could not afford couture prices. The designer said he felt freer after having had this experience of working with Christian.

During the show the sets included a single rose where attendees would be sitting, which he said paid homage to Lacroix’s shows as it was the tradition to toss a single flower on to the runway at shows end.

Dries let loose under Lacroix’s influence, the clothes were a flamboyant mix of the two designers. The clothes were exuberant, colorful with ornate embellishments, and a mix of textures and textiles, and at the same time felt very cool and very now for 2020.

Dries has said it was a fascinating design experience. It was a rare example of collaboration at its finest.

Sam McKnight was also onboard for the hair. Feathers were in the old codes and in the DNA of Lacroix, a bit of the old world glamour peeking through, but to make it cool and now and a bit punk like chopping your own hair.

An amazing example of two huge talents coming together and creating magic in a city that is magical.

xo, SJ